Dump the contents and remove the original labels, of course. Since I shot 620 in a TLR, I got IMMENSE transparencies out of that.įor bottles, I recommend raiding the local grocery store to get liter bottles of club soda - they're under a buck, and the bottles are better than either accordion bottles or the dark, square bottles (less air permeable, easy to squeeze to eliminate air, and clear so you can see what's inside, at least well enough to know that's stop bath and not developer). What I recall from my high school photography course (in 1974, so I won't quote prices and don't recall them anyway) is that we shot a couple rolls of film each, made half a dozen prints (plus test strips), and for the capstone of the course we each shot a roll of E-4 Ektachrome and processed them all as a batch. Unless this is to be a core curriculum course, it's probably sensible to ask the students (parents) to contribute a little to cover film and paper - $50 for a course isn't at all out of reach unless you have a lot of folks with financial hardship - or ask them to supply, say, three rolls of 400 speed B&W film and a small package of multigrade 8x10 paper. You'll probably need at least ten times that for film, paper, and chemicals for your class size (the single user is hit a bit by package sizes much larger than one student will use in a semester or year). You'll need loadable cassettes, but you'll still save a little over buying 70 rolls of film (and the cassettes are reusable), and for that size class you'll probably need two or three bulk rolls anyway.Ī single user can stock a darkroom that already contains equipment for about $50. EDU Ultra 400 will cost about $52 and fill 17(ish) 36 exposure cassettes (or more, but with more waste for tails and leaders, if they're shorter students shooting assignments are often better off with 12-20 exposures). Indicator stop bath is highly preferred, since you can reuse it as long as it stays yellow, and know when its time to replace because it turns purple (black under safelight).įor film, if you don't already have one, I'd suggest prowling eBay, or asking to buy here, a bulk loader (two kinds, with the usual deep division between users of each, but they both work) a one hundred foot roll of. You can use the same fixer (likely at different dilutions) for both film and paper, stop bath is the same stuff and same strength, though it's preferred to keep the film stop and paper stop separate (the paper stop will get used up much faster). You'll also want/need Dektol or equivalent (paper developer) - a gallon pack of Dektol will dilute 1+3 for tray solution, which will put enough to cover a print well and develop half a dozen prints in about 32 trays. I recommend Xtol it doesn't require hot water to mix and is probably the best commercial developer on the current market. Xtol and D-76 powder packages are inexpensive (under $15 to make 5 liters of stock solution, which will make up to 15 liters of working solution - enough to develop close to fifty rolls of 35mm with 1+2 dilution) and you can probably get similar amounts for a little less by buying Legacy or Arista branded equivalents (but watch out for liquid concentrates you'll pay more to ship the water component than you'll save, in many cases). Now, for consumables, if you have any budget at all you can do pretty well. David, AZ would be more informative for most. A US Zip Code isn't very helpful or obvious to those in other countries (not that they're likely to be able to contribute other than monetarily - shipping costs would usually make it cheaper to just buy stuff) - might not even be completely obvious to an American relative to where in the very large United States that is.
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